Smaller tiles → more grout lines; more difficult to clean (especially cement based grout).
Larger tiles → more modern look, fewer grout lines, easier maintenance; especially recommended for floors because they get dirty more quickly, and grout lines are difficult to clean (e.g., 60x60 cm or larger).
Wall tiles: Large tiles require smooth walls; small tiles can more easily follow curved/uneven walls. In new bathrooms, smoothing is often desirable. Smooth walls also allow for neater placement of furniture, shower screens, and the general finish.
In small spaces, extreme wall correction can lead to loss of space; sometimes, it is chosen to (partially) maintain the existing curvature and follow it with smaller tiles.
Tiling Pattern/Layout
Common: half-brick (brick) and full-brick (cross bond).
Diagonal patterns (e.g., herringbone) require more cutting and are more expensive.
Other shapes (e.g., hexagonal) require more cutting at edges → higher costs.
Tiling Height
Bathrooms with low ceilings (±210 cm): usually tiled to the ceiling, especially in shower area.
Bathrooms with high ceilings: Tile height determined in consultation; usually finish with full-brick tiles.
Toilets: often up to ±120 cm (top of built-in cistern), higher possible but not needed.
Tiles above kitchen countertops: finish with full tiles, especially if no upper cabinets. Height in consultation.
Tile Edge Corner Types
The "corner" refers to transition between side and main surface (top) of tile; type of corner varies by tile choice and affects finish.
Square, straight & Sharp: tighter grout line, less variation in joint width.
Rounded / Not Square: more variation in grout width, less tight grout line; always with 'zellige' tiles, also some rectified/unrectified straight-edge tiles.
Beveled Edge: Not recommended for floor tiles; grout recessed, harder to clean.
Zellige tiles example:
Rectified or NON-rectified Tiles:
Note: If not explicitly mentioned that a chosen tile is rectified on the product page/in the specs, these tiles are NON-rectified tiles.
Rectified Tiles:
Less size variation in the tiles (more size accurate) which results in tighter grout lines (especially noticable when Full-brick tiling pattern is chosen) and better alignment of the tile edges relative to each other.
Even rectified tiles have some size variation, albeit usually significantly less than non-rectified tiles. The smaller the grout width the more noticable this difference in size is. The more contrasting the grout color is with the tile color, the more noticable this will be.
Unrectified Tiles:
Greater variation in tile size; usually wider grout. Not recommended for straight-edge non-'zellige' tiles.
PS: Not only the tile size (width x height) can differ but also tile thickness can vary between different tiles and the thickness can even differ from one spot on the tile to another spot on the same tile. Some lower quality tiles can be 'bowed' which can partially be compensated for with tiling techniques. Choosing the cheapest tiles usually gives more chance of above defects being present in the tiles, which can result in a lower quality finish.
Tile Surface Finish
Glazed tiles (available in matte or high gloss finish):
Floor: matte recommended (high gloss = slippery).
Wall: matte or high gloss; high gloss easier to clean.
Unglazed tiles:
Unglazed OR 'cement' tiles: not recommended due to fragility, maintenance, water absorption, easy to stain.
Tile Type (wall or floor)
Floor tiles/double-fired: harder, more scratch-resistant, also suitable for walls.
Wall tiles/single-fired: softer, brittle, only for walls.
Exterior Corner Finish
Usually with finishing profile (aluminum, white, brushed/polished stainless steel).
Finishing Outside Corner with End Profile
Side View:
Other colors/profiles available upon request.
Bathroom / Toilet Door Threshold
Wet rooms: recommend composite stone sills (moisture resistant), available in anthracite/gray, other colors on request.
Less expensive than natural stone, more chemical resistant and scratch resistant.
Wooden door sills/tresholds not recommended for wet areas.
Natural Stone
Depending on type: can be soft/brittle, may require sealing and maintenance (e.g., travertine).
Pay attention to chemical resistance.
Grout
Grout width
Rectified: 2–3 mm. Note: If not explicitly rectified, tiles are NOT rectified.
Unrectified: greater variation; usually wider grout. Not recommended for straight-edge non-'zellige' tiles.
Very narrow (±1.5 mm): only if dimensional stability is high.
Note: Tile thickness/squareness may vary; cheaper tiles more likely to have variations.
Grout Type
Cement based: common, cheaper, harder to clean, risk of discoloration, less chemically resistant.
Composite: more expensive, chemically resistant, easier to clean, less discoloration (recommended for light-colored floors).
Grout and Sealant Color
Most efficient: one color for entire room (walls and floor).
Different grout/sealant color for wall and floor is possible (eg wall white and floor antracite grey), requires more work, more expensive.
Usually small contrast between grout and tile color is chosen; more contrast possible but variations in grout width/alignment more visible with contrasting grout color (especially with with non-rectified tiles)
Darker grout colors show dirt/grime less easily
If light color (eg white) chosen for floor grout, consider choosing composite type grout (more costly but easier to clean/less prone to staining and discoloration)
Example of high color contrast between tiles and grout:
Example of low color contrast between tiles and grout:
Standard Heights (Wet Areas)
Heights relative to finished floor. Guidelines; deviations possible.
Element
Standard Guideline
Comment / Adjustment
Toilet
±40 cm top of bowl to floor
For elderly, higher bowl; ±45–50cm top of bowl to floor for easier use.
Sink / Vanity
±90 cm top of sink to floor
Mirror
Centerline ±170 cm above floor
Shower faucet
±110 cm above floor/shower tray
Bathtub
±60 cm height of bath rim to floor level
Bath faucet
center of bath faucet at 15–20 cm above bath rim
Electrical outlet(s) above sink
outlet center 30 cm above the top of the sink
Aligned (approximately) with edge of sink/vanity
Seniors, Limited Mobility, Wheelchair Users
Heights may differ; determined in consultation.
Element
Standard Guideline
Comment / Adjustment
Folding chair / folding seat
45–50 cm seat height to floor
Can be added in shower or near sink for limited mobility
Handles / supports
Upon consultation
Installed near toilet, shower, bath for safety
Standard Sizes (Wet Rooms)
Shower
Walk-in shower: 90–100 cm wide, minimum depth 120 cm
Shower enclosure with glass wall:
Standard: 90×90 cm
More spacious: 100×100 cm
Narrow: 80×80 cm if limited space
Shower enclosure / Glass wall height: 200 cm
Note: If users taller than 200 cm, taller version advisable.
Bath
Built-in bathtub: 180×80 cm
Freestanding bathtub: Dimensions vary by model
Sink / Vanity
Standard depth: 45–50 cm
Shallow models: available, more expensive, fewer options
Note: Only choose shallower version if necessary due to space
Bathroom Finishing Options – Explanation
1. Sink or Vanity
Sink (without base cabinet):
Simple, usually cheaper.
Less sleek/modern; siphon and plumbing partially visible.
Vanity:
Extra storage for towels, toiletries, cleaning supplies.
Sleeker, more aesthetically pleasing.
More expensive.
Vanity with top-mounted sink (e.g., bowl):
Can combine with standard (sink-mounted) taps; wall-mounted optional.
Note: Closed-top vanity cabinet needed.
2. Shower
Type: Walk-in, shower enclosure, corner shower with glass door, or double glass doors if space limited.
Walk-in shower: modern, open, accessible, ideal for seniors.
Shower enclosure: compact, suitable for smaller bathrooms.
Shower enclosure with double doors: for limited space; otherwise, not recommended due to cost.
Shower Faucet
Built-in or surface-mounted, standard or rain showerhead, with/without hand shower.
Surface-mounted: common, easier to install, more visible, cheaper.
Built-in: sleek, minimalist, easier to clean, more expensive.
Rain shower: luxurious, uses more water, pressure and boiler type important.
Hand shower: flexible, practical, usually included.
Shower Floor
Shower tray (non-tiled): cost-efficient, easy to clean, modern look. Options: color, drain shape, flush installation possible.
Recommend composite material tray: grippy surface, scratches less visible.
Tiled shower floor: same tiles as rest of floor, flush, more costly.
Shower Drain
Multiple types/looks available. Aesthetic choice mostly; linear drain more labor-intensive and slightly more expensive. All types below except round drain are available for both shower tray and tiled floor.
Linear drain:
Square drain:
Round drain:
3. Toilet
Type:
Rimless: easier to clean, more hygienic.
Non-rimless: cheaper, harder to clean.
Toilet Seat: Soft-close recommended.
Flush buttons: Horizontal or Vertical. Vertical preferred by Grohe; multiple colors/designs available.
Smart toilet / bidet: Heated seat, bidet, dryer, auto-flush, varies by model. Requires extra connections (plumbing/electric).
4. Bath
Type: Built-in or freestanding.
Built-in: flush against wall(s), saves space.
Freestanding (corner): luxurious, more space needed.
Fully freestanding: requires space around entire bath.
Bath Water Tap: with/without hand-shower attachment.
Bath water tap with hand-shower attachment:
Bath splash screen:
Material choices:
Acrylic: Lightweight, many shapes and colors, warm to the touch.
Pros: Affordable, easy to install, warm feel.
Cons: Scratch-prone, may dull or discolor over time.
Finish: Mostly glossy; some textured anti-slip bases available.
Scratches: Fairly visible but can be polished out.
Enameled steel: Thinner and lighter than cast iron.
Cons: Can be noisy when filling, enamel may chip under impact load, cold feel (when not yet warmed up by water).
Finish: Glossy enamel.
Scratches: Highly resistant; chips, if they occur, are obvious.
Composite materials: Collective term for baths made of minerals + resin or acrylic. Different brands use different names.
Examples: Quaryl®, Solid Surface, Cast Marble, Engineered Stone.
Pros: Luxurious look, durable, good heat retention, sleek modern shapes.
Cons: Heavier, more expensive, scratch resistance varies by brand/type.
Finish: Glossy or matte depending on type; textured options possible.
Scratches:
Quaryl® – scratches less frequent and less visible (compared to standard acrylic).
Solid Surface – scratches least visible, repairable.
Single Recessed: sleeker, only 1 device connection.
8. Lighting
Spotlights: modern, directional, ceiling must be opened if replaced, more expensive.
Central Light Point: classic, cheaper, existing connection usable.
Dimmable: Optional, more expensive, not all lamps are dimmable (need to buy specific dimmabel versions for it to work). *Not easily combinable with bathroom fan switched on light with timer (recommended type)/*
9. Fountain (Small Washbasin for Toilet)
Corner or standard model.
Corner: saves space, ideal for small toilet areas.
Standard: classic, slightly less suitable for small corners.
Water connection: cold only or cold + warm.
Cold only: sufficient, inexpensive.
Cold + warm: more comfortable, requires extra cost/connections.
10. Trap / Siphon
What is a Trap / Siphon?
A trap is a section of plumbing that connects a fixture to the sewer system. It prevents sewer gases from entering the room while allowing wastewater to flow away.
Traps come in different designs, including the traditional P-trap (U-shaped) and the bottle trap (cup-shaped), commonly used under washbasins and small sinks.
The sewer gases are blocked by a small amount of water retained in the trap, creating a seal.
Two types/shapes: Bottle Trap vs. P-Trap
P-trap / S-trap:
Bottle trap:
Mostly an aesthetics choice.
Material Options (available for both types)
Plastic, chrome plates steel, stainless steel. Mostly an aesthetics choice.
11. Heating
Underfloor heating (electric): even heat, modern, no radiator, easy to clean, comfortable, ideal for bathrooms; higher installation cost.
Radiator: towel radiator, dries/warm towels, modern, occupies wall, less even heating.
Recommend electric radiators for separate control.
12. Accessories
Towel racks/hangers, toilet roll holders, finishing touch. Variants available.
Grohe brand: accessories in same color scheme as taps. Cheaper options from other brands available.
13. Washing machine / Dryer:
If you plan to install or use a washing machine and/or dryer in the bathroom, the necessary connections must be present. The required connections vary depending on the type of appliance, as shown in the table below:
Connections Required per Machine
✅ = required, ✖ = not required, ◐ = optional / depends (see notes below)
Appliance Type
Cold Water Inlet
Hot Water Inlet
Drain connection
Power (230V)
Ventilation / Exhaust
Washing Machine
✅
◐ Usually not. Most washing machines can heat water internally, so only a cold water connection is needed.
✅
✅
✖
Clothes Dryer (Condenser / Heat Pump)
◐ Usually not. Some dryers with steam-function may require cold water inlet.
✖
◐ Some models store water extracted from the clothes internally in a reservoir for manual emptying,no drain connection needed. Dryers which pump this water directly into the drain (no internal reservoir), do require a drain connection.
✅
✖
Vented Clothes Dryer
✖
✖
✖
✅
✅
Washer-Dryer Combo
✅
◐ Usually not. Most washing machines can heat water internally, so only a cold water connection is needed.